I think there is a lot of confusion around what is the most simple and effective way to finish a neckline purely because there are a couple different ways to do it and a hundred different names for the same techniques.  I have put together a tutorial illustrating two methods which can be used. Option A is the easiest one is to sew and perfect for complete beginners. In this method, the shoulders are closed after binding the neckline. However, the nicer finish (albeit a tiny bit harder) is Option B, attaching the binding 'in the round", which results in a cleaner finish. Have a look, give it a go and see which method you prefer!

CONCEALED BINDING - Option A, with the binding attached before closing shoulders

 

1. With right sides together place front body on top of back body and sew the shoulder together with a 1cm (3/8”) seam. 

 

2. Press the shoulder seam towards the back body and overlock together or zigzag raw edges. If the fabric is bulky you should press the seams open.

 

3. Pin the right side of the binding on to the right side of the garment's neckline.

 

4. Stitch the binding to the neck with a 6mm (1/4”) seam.

 

5. Press the seam upwards into the neck hole (not down towards body).

 

6. Fold the raw edge of the binding over the seam allowance (towards the inside/wrong side of the garment), so it sits just on top of the stitch line on the inside of the neck. Give it a press so you have a clean fold line.

 

7. Then fold over once more in the same direction (towards the inside of the garment). All raw edges and stitch lines should now be hidden under the binding. Pin if needed and edge stitch the binding in place.

 

8. Sew the second shoulder seam, catching the open end of the binding into the seam. Zigzag stitch or overlock the edges of the shoulder. 

 

 9. Your neckline is now complete!


 

CONCEALED BINDING - Option B, with binding attached in the round

 

NB I have used the reverse of the fabric for this example

 

1. With right sides together, sew both shoulders together using a 1cm (3/8”) seam 

 

2. With the right side of your bodice facing up, position your binding right side down (so right sides are together), around the neckline and pin. Once you reach the beginning, match up the short ends of your bias tape to where they will join together and mark the join with a finger crease.

 

3. Unpin a couple of inches from each end and sew the ends of the bias tape together along the creased lines. Trim the ends and press the seam open. 

 

4. Finish pinning the binding back into place and stitch the binding to the neckline with a 6mm (1/4”) seam. Press the seam upwards towards the neck hole (not down towards the body).

 

5. Fold the raw edge of the binding over the seam allowance (towards the inside/wrong side of the garment), so that it sits just on top of the stitch line on the inside of the neck. Press to give a clean fold line.

 

6. Then, fold the binding over again in the same direction (towards the inside of the garment), so that it is tucked under. All raw edges and stitch lines should now be hidden under the binding. Pin if needed and edge stitch the binding in place.

 

7. Your neckline is complete!

We'd love to see how you get on, please share your projects using the hashtag #papertheorypatterns