When it comes to finishing the inside seams of a garment, there are many different approaches. For most fabrics a simple Zigzag stitch or overlocking/serging is usually adequate. However occasionally a garment calls for something more thoughtful. I think for swishy or long skirts French Seams can be a nice finish because you often see the inside of the skirt when there is movement. The straightforward pattern pieces and construction for the skirt portion of the Zadie Dress makes finishing the skirt with French Seams quite simple. Here's how to do it.

 Note*The bodice can also be French seamed, however some consideration will need to made around keyhole belt opening on the side body. I usually treat the seam allowance separately and turn the front and back seam allowance under and topstitch them down (it looks a little bit like a felled seam) You can definitely French that seam by following the split method here but its quite a laborious process for a small 4cm section. 

STEP 1:

First follow Zadie Dress instructions steps 1-6c, then hem the vertical opening of the front right skirt. Turn the raw edge inside by 1cm and press, then fold up again by 2cm. Pin in place and edgestitch down. Repeat for the left front skirt.

2. Place a pocket bag onto one of the front skirt pieces, right sides together and  matching the notches.

3. Draw in a 1.5cm seam stitch line between the notches. Pin the pocket bag in place and stitch this line, pivoting at corners. Then clip into the corners.

4. Understitch the long edge of the opening but stop 5mm away from corner.

5. Place the second bag behind the first bag with wrong sides together and stitch a 5mm seam around the pocket bags. Trim off any excess threads. 

6. Turn the out and press the bag before starting the second row of your french seam, sewing 1cm away from the edge.

7. Place the back of the skirt onto the front skirt (wrong sides together), pin and sew using a 5mm seam down the long edge.  

8. Trim away any threads. Turn over and press seam open.

9. Now bring your skirt pieces together again but with right sides together and sew the remaining 1cm seam for the french seam. Make sure your pocket bag is sitting nicely under the front skirt in the position your hands would be in it when you are wearing it.

Your Zadie Dress with French seamed skirt is complete and ready to wear! This isn't only a summer style, the loose fit and wrap around design make for great layering opportunities during the colder or transitional months too, so you can wear it all year round.

We really hope that you love this redesign as much as we do and we can't wait to see yours sewn up, so please don't forget to tag us using #zadiedress